Day 28: Sarria to Portomarin.
- sarezend
- May 16, 2025
- 5 min read
Today’s plan to Portomarin is 24 KMs. I’m not sure what to expect as I prepare to depart my Albergue/hotel. I’m aware there will be more people on the trail now, and my time alone will be limited. But Portomarin is one of my favorite cities from the past 2 Camino’s recalling the city looking down over the river Mino which looks more like a lake reservoir. 10 years ago, it was a vibrant small town with beautiful views of water and the surrounding hills and I hope that remains the same.
I depart Sarria around 7:30am and walk up the long stairway that sits on the edge of old town. As I reach the top I’m out of breath, and I decide to pop into a cafe for a quick coffee. I walk in and I see Julia from San Diego finishing her breakfast. We say hello, and she asks about Jimmy, as it was in Astorga, Jimmy’s last day, now 4 days ago being the last time I saw Julia. She’s leaving, and I tell her I’ll see her down the trail later. Thats seems to be everyone’s perfunctory response. I order my new favorite coffee, a cafe Cortado, and it arrives in short order. I feel like my Spanish was getting better as the lady didn’t bother speaking English or maybe she doesn’t speak English… I don’t know but I drink my coffee proudly standing at the bar like a local would.
I return to the Camino and a short journey to the edge of town, I see the older Texas couple I’d witnessed the night before walking out of town. They were taking pictures of the Camino signs and already seemed reluctant. I had read my guide book this morning and I know there is a steep incline climbing 600 feet in elevation on the outskirts of town before pilgrims arrive at the next small town. I don’t think they are prepared for what is coming but I hope they make it. Although 600 feet may not seem like a lot, the climb is still difficult.
The walk from Sarria to Portomarin is best described as quiet trails sitting amongst trees and passing through many small hamlets and farms. It’s truly one of
My favorite hikes of the Camino. As I continue the smell of the many dairy farms again brings back those childhood memories described previously. Today’s weather is not warm, there is a slight constant breeze blowing, making the day cool and at times cold. I had taken my jacket off earlier as I climbed that 600 foot incline but the cold air kept nipping at me and after a rest stop, eating some cake make with apricot, I put my jacket back on.
The trail is full and I’m stopped several times to wait for new pilgrims to take photo opportunities in front of water flowing down the trails in various places. Yes, it is annoying but all I can do is let it happen and then move by the pilgrims with a “buen Camino” and move as fast as I can forward to gain some distance. The truth is the new pilgrims are on their first day and are full of energy, and comparatively, it’s day 28, I’m starting to feel my body tire and every small little burst of energy takes it out of me.
Most of the day I walked by myself but I did bump into my new Canadian friends Gord and Michelle. They are very nice and fun to talk to as Gord has many Camino stories. As I close in on Portomarin, we run into Julia from San Diego and the four of us walk into Portomarin. As we enter the city, we each move in different directions and say goodbye. These towns are small, everyone eats in the same areas, and Gord reminds me I owe him a beer from some past discussion we had.
I find my hotel, check-in, and download my gear, shower, and do laundry. These are the day to day chores. I was out of clean clothes and was seriously in need of fresh wear. I get everything washed and place the clothes in the dryer, $1 euro every 15 minutes. Not so bad. I put $2 euro in thinking 30 minutes would be plenty of time. I run to the store and get supplies for the next day, water, peanuts, and an orange. I return to check on my clothes and they are not yet dry, in fact they still feel pretty wet. Odd… I put another $1 euro and start another 15 minutes. I see the dryer’s exhaust pipe coming out into another room and feel the air coming out and it’s cold air not warm. I check the dryer functions, it’s on a heat cycle but no heat is generated. After 15 minutes. I still have wet clothes but two shirts feel dry enough. I pull the shirts out and add another $1 euro. Re-entering my room, I see the sun is out and open the window and hang my shirts on the window. 15 minutes later I take the rest of my laundry from the dryer and in my room I now have all of my laundry drying at the window.
While my laundry dries in my room I go out for a stroll in the town of Portomarin, I see Andy and Heather and sit with them for a glass of wine. The weather has turned warmer and it’s nice to relax. Andy and Heather tell me they passed the older Texas couple, on the climb out of the Portomarin and the woman was struggling. They leave to eat dinner. I also find a place for a quick meal, protein based, and I return to my hotel room to find very dry clothes. I’m relieved, carrying wet clothes is heavy and the last thing at this stage that is needed would be added weight. Good night! Please enjoy the pictures of the day:
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