Day 32: Santiago de Compostella.

Not much to say. Started the day at 5:00am, walked out the door after a Nespresso coffee at my Albergue, and off I went into the dark. I immediately met four other pilgrims getting the early start. I was the only one with a working flashlight so, I lit the way for the next 2 hours. It’s a 20km walk into Santiago through pitch dark trails. Nothing was there to bite us except our imaginations.

4.5 hours later at 9:30am and in the light of the morning I walked through the Santiago cathedral portal and arrived at the plaza in front of the Cathedral of Santiago. It’s a beautiful site, as I walked to the center of the plaza, took my pack off and placed it in the ground. I took a big swig of water and enjoyed the surreal moment. I felt so exhausted and energized at the same time. My feet were sore but nothing could bother me at this moment in view of the Cathedral. I met up with a few pilgrims I’ve seen multiple times and spoke with over the last 32 days. Rob from New Jersey, Peter from Sweden, the Canadians, Julia from San Diego and one more special lady I met this morning, Margaret, an 86 year old woman who had also just finished her Camino starting from St. Jean Pied de Port on April 4 had finished this same moment. Margaret’s story was incredible. She tells me that she is from Alaska and had started her Camino the previous year, but about a third of the way through she was hit by a passing bicyclist and she broke her left leg. She was hospitalized in Spain and ultimately transferred to Stanford Hospital in Palo Alto, CA where she recovered. Margaret then returned to her starting place one year later to start her Camino over! 86 years old! She asks if I’d like her to take my picture, and of course I said yes.

Margaret was full of energy and as much as I admire her energy, the last 3 days have been as hard as the first three. I’ve felt tired the last few days anticipating this to be over. It was harder than I thought it would be but I accomplished what I came for. I was physically tired and didn’t really know how to feel right now. I felt numb.

A few minutes past by, and a Spanish man came over, introduced himself, asked if I spoke English and told me he was leading a tour group of Americans and wondered if I’d be willing to speak with them and answer some questions. I perked up and said of course.

The group of Americans in their mid to late 70’s joined me and I answered several questions. The tour leader asked where I started, I responded, “St. Jean Pied de Port in France 32 days ago.” He turns to the group and says, “this is a real pilgrim.”

One man asked, “may I ask what your motivation was for doing the Camino?” And, it was at that moment I broke down. The emotions of being done and the reasons for walking this Camino all hit me as if I’d been punched in the face. I stood, fighting tears, my voice cracking, “My dad passed away 2 years ago, and I did this for him and his parents for emigrating to America for a better life and so, there it is, a homage, a thank you for my life.”

The man shook my hand, the tour leader shook my hand, and others said thank you for sharing. We discussed the ups and downs physically and mentally but ultimately walking the Camino is a personal journey and if embarked can be done at different paces. This is an experience, a symbol of everyday life, some good, some bad, but it’s how you respond to the daily challenge is what is important.

I’m here now in Santiago, and attending the pilgrim mass at 12:00pm. It is amazing as the we all watch the clergy light the urn and push and pull the ropes to move the urn within the Cathedral walls spreading insense through the building. It is a beautiful symbol and nod to the approximately 1,000 pilgrims attending the mass. As mass ends, I depart the cathedral and sit in the plaza square just staring at the Cathedral and watching pilgrims entering the square celebrating their accomplishment. It is something, 800 KMs and over 500 miles. Thank you for following my journey. This is the end for the blog, please enjoy the pictures of the day:

The dark morning trail with a light in the distance

A chapel on my way to Santiago

A Knight Templars Statue guards the outskirts of Santiago

Arrived

Entering the city limits with the Cathedral towers peeking over buildings in the distance

The Cathedral of Santiago’s Portal Entrance

Standing in front of the Cathedral in the plaza square

My tattered backpack

Inside the Cathedral waiting for mass to start. The alter and its surrounding gilded architecture.

The clergy lifting the urn via the large ropes

The urn swinging within the Cathedral

Swinging the urn back the other way

The Cathedral after mass